ICERAS

What is no good in Eritrea?”  I ask Eferm.  “I know that everyone has to go to the army.”  He counts on his fingers: “No work, no food, army, bad government.”

Bad may be a misnomer.  Eritrea has a totalitarian government that has been in place for 25 years.  There are no elections, no constitution, and no independent press.  The slightest rumour of political activism, or even sympathy with dissenters, is grounds for immediate arrest and indefinite detention.  The United Nations Inquiry on Human Rights in Eritrea is a horrifying read, as is the US 2017 Human Rights Report.  Even the most clinical language cannot soften the list of human rights abuses: arbitrary arrests and indefinite detentions, the widespread use of torture in prisons and during military service and training, complete government control of movement and resources, and compulsory, indefinite national service.  The government maintains complete control by forcing its citizens to spy on one another – if they refuse, they might be disappeared; if they have nothing to report, they can be jailed.  Any journey, even to the next city, requires a yellow travel pass. Coupons are used to buy foods in government stores, and can be frozen at any time. The average wage during national service is equivalent to €52 a month; in a government store, a litre of sunflower oil and half a kilo of pasta cost €5 each. readmore